The Dutch Breed Standard
ORIGIN: The Netherlands.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE OFFICIAL VALID STANDARD:
UTILIZATION: Pointing dog.
The Stabijhoun is a very versatile dog. He is an all-round hunting dog and keeps the yard free of mice and rats. He guards the yard and has a good reputation as a mole and polecat catcher. The previously common larger type Stabijhoun pulled the milk carts, while the smaller type made his name as a professional mole catcher. This talent made the Stabij popular with the poorer farmers and farmhands. The moleskins were worth a lot of money as linings for the wrists of sleeves and other items. The Stabijhoun was carried in a basket on the bike so that they could cover long distances.
FCI-CLASSIFICATION: Group 7 Pointing Hunting.
Section 1.2 Continental Pointing Dogs.
With working trial.
The Stabijhoun is related to the Drentsche Patrijshond and Heidewachtel. The Stabijhoun probably owes its name to its versatility. The word Stabijhoun is derived from the words ‘sta mij bij’ or ‘stand by me’, while Houn is the Frisian word for dog and is pronounced "hoon". The Stabijhoun originates in the Frisian forest area. In the early 20th century Stabijhoun and Wetterhoun were regularly crossbred with each other. Thereby, the unique varieties of each were threatened to be lost. In 1938 a group of enthusiastic people of the Kynologenclub Friesland started purifying the two breeds again and in 1942 both breeds were officially recognized.
Important names in this process were: J. Bos, T. van Dijk, B. de Graaf and W. Hoeksema. The first standard was dated February 10, 1944. In 1947, the Dutch Association for Stabij and Wetterhounen (NVSW) was established. The NVSW represents the interests of The Frisian Breeds since 1947. The population of the Stabijhoun is currently (2013) more than 6000 dogs worldwide.
The general appearance is very important. It briefly says how the Stabij should look. Does everything appear balanced; the head with the body, the front with the rear, etc?
Functionally and powerful built pointing dog. The body is slightly longer than its height at the withers. The overall picture is neither too robust nor too fine. The skin should fit tightly. The feathering on chest, collar, forelegs, trousers and tail gives the Stabijhoun the impression of being long-haired, but the coat should not be excessively long. Sex should be unmistakable.
The Stabijhoun should be slightly stretched. This means a little longer then high. About 10% is a good guideline. It means that a dog from 50 cm high, should be approximately 55 cm long. We measure the length from the breastbone to the sit bones. T The length of the front legs (from the floor to the elbows) needs to be equal to the length from the elbow to the withers.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS: The body is slightly longer than high. It is important that the harmony and balance associated with a functional body is in accordance with the size of the dog. Elbow is approximately equidistant from ground to withers.
The Stabijhoun is very independent and likes to go his own way. The Stabijhoun is affectionate with a distinctive friendly nature to children, but can also be very headstrong. Patience and a consistent education are essential. In the house or in the yard, the Stabijhoun is a quiet but vigilant dog. With strangers or in unfamiliar situations, Stabijhoun may be reserved at first, but should not be afraid.
The head is a very important part of the breeding standard. Especially in his head, the Stabij is differentiated from other (hunting) breeds. The male should have a slightly heavier (but not too heavy) head and the female, a more refined head.
The length of the muzzle should be as long as the length of the skull. In the real world, most of the Stabijs are a bit shorter in muzzle. The muzzle starts at the point of the nose and ends at the transition to the skull, between the eyes. The skull starts where the muzzle ends and continues to the occiput, which you can feel as a knot on the skull. The slope of the stop must be moderate.
The bridge of the nose should be nice and straight. The last part, which is just cartilage, may be drooping a bit. You can lift the nose tip to see if the nose bridge is straight. The last part of the nose is not a bone, so is less important. In this case, when only the tip is low, it is incorrect to say that the nose bridge isn’t straight. When rounding occurs, as we see in a rams-nose (convex) or a dish-faced (concave) nose, it is not at the end of the nose bridge, but along the bridge of the muzzle. The muzzle should be full, but tapering a little bit to the nose.
The Stabij eyes need to be level in the head versus the slight upward angle of the Wetterhoun eyes. In the breeding standard is written a round eye, but it shouldn’t be too round, but more oval. The eyelids need to fit nicely around the eyeball; drooping eyelids are undesirable. You should not be able to see the third eyelid or the haw. The rim of the eye should have good pigmentation and the eye must be well set (neither protruding or deepset).
The Stabij ears are set fairly low. Auricle so little developed that ear flaps hang closely, without a fold at the base, along the head. Not admitted are ears with a strongly developed auricle which do not fold directly at the base of the ear, but further down, so that they do not hang flat against the head. The ears are moderately long and have the form of a mason’s trowel. The feathering of the ear is a typical characteristic of the breed: rather long at the base of the ear, decreasing in length gradually, the lowest 1/3 part of the ear covered with short hair. The long coat must be straight; slightly wavy is permitted, but curled is objectionable.
To fetch the game, the Stabij should have a strong neck, not a long or an elegant neck. The short neck that’s written in the breeding standard shouldn’t be taken too strictly. The neck should be long enough to catch the game, lift it and carry it, without disturbing the dog’s movement. . A strong neck is often a good indication for the rest of the spine. This will be strong also. The Stabij does carry his head low, merging into the body at an oblique angle. This stance is ess elegant than a highly carried neck, but it involves less effort and is better for their endurance.
Because the Stabij are true gundogs and can be used in the field for a whole day, the heart and lungs must have sufficient space to work efficiently under the additional stress. Therefore, we must evaluate the way the ribcage sits in the trunk of the dog.
The breastbone should be prominently felt at the front of the dog a little lower then between the point of forebreast,It is often said that this should be protruding enough to hang your coat on! The underside of the ribcage must be level with the elbows. Often, in younger dogs, the ribcage is above the elbow level and the judge may remark that the chest is still underdeveloped.
The sternum lies at the underside of the ribcage. It must extend long enough to reach beyond a line drawn perpendicular to the floor straight down from the withers. It should not have too much slope. To reemphasize, the rib cage should extend well back and not be too tucked up.
The ribs must taper gradually and should not be too round or too flat. When these requirements are satisfactorily met, the heart and the lungs will have the room to develop properly. This will benefit the endurance of the dog. When the ribs are too round, the space in the trunk won’t be optimally exploited, and the heart and lungs won’t have the space they need. The dog’s movement is effected when the ribcage is too round, and this may also be observed in activities such as swimming. He has more resistance when he is broad. Think about, for example, the bow of a ship and how it moves through the water.
The chest should be rather broad. The front legs are a bit wide apart, but must be under the body. The elbows should be close to the chest.